5 Days in Yunnan (Dali & Lijiang): Where to Sleep as a Foreign Passport Holder

A foreign passport holder’s 5-day Dali–Lijiang plan is two bases: two nights in Dali (Old Town or Erhai shore) and three in Lijiang (Old Town or Shuhe). The high-speed train between them takes about 2 hours, and both towns have licensed hotels that register foreigners — but the ancient-town inns vary, so confirm the licence each time you book.

Two bases on the old-trade road

Dali and Lijiang are the twin jewels of northwest Yunnan, linked by a fast train and separated by very different moods. Dali pairs a medieval town with a big lake; Lijiang opens the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the Naxi old town. Sleeping in each saves a tiring daily commute and lets you wake inside the scenery. All three cities have foreigner-licensed hotels; the catch is that many charming old-town inns are not licensed for foreign passports.

Hotels in China must log foreign guests with public security. Big city hotels do it at check-in; tiny lane guesthouses may refuse you. Confirm acceptance — see can foreigners stay in Chinese hotels.

Day 1 — Arrive Dali, base by the lake or town

Fly into Dali (DLU) or train from Kunming/Lijiang. Settle in a Dali hotel: either inside the Old Town (lively, lantern-lit) or on the Erhai lakeshore (quiet, scenic). Show your passport for registration. Afternoon cycling the lake causeway.

Day 2 — Dali countryside

Three Pagodas, Xizhou village, and a boat on Erhai. Sleep in Dali. For the northern comparison, see where to stay near Lijiang, which explains the Old Town versus Shuhe trade-off you will face next.

Day 3 — Train to Lijiang, change base

Train Dali–Lijiang (~2 hours). Check in to a Lijiang hotel: the UNESCO Old Town (atmospheric but hilly) or the calmer Shuhe sub-town. Registration resets; present your passport. Evening walk in the Old Town squares.

Day 4 — Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

A guided or driver day to the mountain, the Glacier Park cable car, and the Blue Moon Valley. Return to Lijiang for the night.

Day 5 — Tiger Leaping Gorge or relax, depart

Option A: a day trip to Tiger Leaping Gorge. Option B: a slow Lijiang day and a Naxi music show. Sleep in Lijiang, then fly out from Lijiang (LJG) or train on. Five nights, two bases.

Night-by-night base plan

NightBase areaWhy hereTransfer note
1Dali (Old Town/Erhai)Lake and townFlight or HSR to Dali
2Same Dali baseCountryside dayE-bike or taxi
3Lijiang (Old Town/Shuhe)Mountain baseHSR Dali–Lijiang
4Same Lijiang baseSnow MountainDriver, return
5Same Lijiang baseGorge or restDriver, return

Picking your old-town vs lakeshore room

Dali Old Town puts restaurants and night life at your door but can be noisy; Erhai shore lodges are serene and photogenic but need a driver to dinner. In Lijiang, the main Old Town is the postcard experience yet crowded; Shuhe is a ten-minute drive away and far calmer, with the same licence standards at good hotels.

Payment and booking notes

Dali and Lijiang boutiques often prefer cash or Alipay; upscale Old Town hotels may take foreign cards. Book old-town rooms ahead in spring and autumn. For card acceptance by tier, see foreign credit card hotels in China. For area detail, read where to stay near Lijiang.

Frequently asked questions

Is altitude an issue?

Lijiang (~2,400 m) is moderate; most adjust fine. Dali is lower. Drink water and take the first day easy if breathless.

Do old-town guesthouses take foreigners?

The licensed ones do; many small ones don’t. Always confirm, or book a known chain inside the town.

Can I skip Dali?

If you fly direct to Lijiang, yes. But Dali’s lake-and-town combo is worth the two nights for most.

Are the trains easy for foreigners?

Yes — modern, bilingual, passport-ID booking. Book early around holidays.

Will my card work in Lijiang?

At upscale Old Town hotels, usually. At boutiques, often not. Carry cash.

Is five days enough?

For Dali and Lijiang, yes. Add nights for Shangri-La if you want more altitude and Tibetan culture.

When is best to visit?

March–May and September–November are ideal. Summer is rainy; winter is dry, cold at altitude, but sunny.

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